Mexico City: a day of Frida and Diego...by accident


  Went to Mexico City to see a show.  But, being unprepared, that didn't happen.  What did happen was a visit to Frida Kahlo's blue house, which I'd never seen, followed by the Diego Rivera mural museum on the Alameda, where one of his largest murals was moved after the hotel, in which is was originally housed, got destroyed in the big earthquake back in '85.  After that, and to round out the whole accidental theme, we stopped by Bellas Artes, which I must have visited in the past, but didn't remember at all.  That was definitely the highlight of the day.  It not only had beautiful art deco architecture, which was way too cool to really show up in the photos, but it was full of Murals by Rivera, Siqueiros, and Tamayo...actually, I'm pretty sure there was at least one other, but I can't remember who it was.  Well, I didn't take many photos of the murals, but I would definitely place this at the top of the list of "must see" things in el D.F.  Here's a link to a little history of the mural that I took pictures of.  There's also a link to a good picture of it there, though it pales in comparison to the real thing.
  The Kahlo was actually really cool because it was a house, as much as a museum, and so you got to see her studio, her wheelchair, Diego's room (the room in which Trotsky stayed before he was assassinated), and both of Frida's beds, among all sorts of other things (one of the casts, for example).  I hadn't realized that she was born, grew up and lived, and then died, all in the same house. All in all a very cool Museum, and it was also great to get to see so many Rivera works in one day because I got a good feel for his politics, as well as Mexican politics.  It's impressive to see how strongly they both identified with the Russian revolution.
  Also worth noting: if anyone happens to be on Pacifico, going East, there's a taco stand, just before you get to La Conchita (it's not the one about fifteen feet away on a side street).  It's kind of amazing.  They've got gorditas too, but the tacos are great.  They'll make them with papas and cebolla, and they've got salsas to remember.  They've also got boing on hand, so no worries about getting thirsty.  A must-stop if you're in the neighborhood.  Coffee place facing the Conchita makes a commendable espresso too, so you might as well stop there after your tacos.


In Coyoacan, the Barrio where the Kahlo is.

La Conchita.  In Coyoacan.

The belfry of La Conchita

The front of the Conchita.  Notice the reinforcement in the doorframe and the large cracks in the wall.

In the yard of the blue house.  I liked this view, and so I took too many photos of it.

On the patio of the blue house.

Diego and Frida were big supporters of the revolution.

Fern.


And there's me.

Oh, and what might those be?

Yes that's really leaning as much as it appears to be.

I think the meaning's probably pretty clear here.  It's a flagpole.

Jacaranda trees never seem to be in the right spot for a good photo.

This building isn't leaning, but it's pretty trippy, no?

Leaning/sinking church across the street from the Alameda.

Bellas Artes.  Art Deco awesomeness.

And look at that eagle!  And what a roof!  And...!

Over windows of Bellas Artes.

A ticket winow.  Is that font not the coolest thing you've ever seen since at least five seconds ago?

Looking lengthwise across the inside of Bellas Artes.  In the distance is "Man, controller of the Universe", a repainting of the original "Man at the Crossroads."

The controller.  This is only the center.  Farther to the left is the capitalist past, and to the right is the Communist future with Lenin and others.  Lenin's face, which is on the right here, was what caused problems with the first version of this painting.

What was done in stone is done here in metal.

The revolution with Trotsky in the right portion of the mural.

Outside Bellas Artes with the sun low in the sky.

Outside Bellas Artes.

Across the street from Bellas Artes.

As above.

La Casa De Azulejo.  That's all tile.

Mexico City's rental bikes.  They actually seem to be making a pretty huge effort to encourage bicycle-riding in the city.

The Cathedral from Bellas Artes.


  

Comments

  1. very interesting excursions! Oh, I like Frida Kahlo (I like her some works, her life story). And your photo of blue house! Fern on a background a blue - looks fantastic! And how I like such blue walls! And I like old stone.Bellas Artes - roof and moldings look very good and where а ticket window is a very interesting rock.I'll not say that I like Diego's revolutionary murals, but it was interesting to see.
    Oh, I very like photo "Outside Bellas Artes with the sun low in the sky." - very beautiful color and shade, combination of warm sky with cold metal.
    And Jacaranda trees! I so love such this flower color! Flagpole is a very interesting statue, I didn't see anything like it, interesting view.
    Аnd your shirt combining with blue walls=)
    So, tacos was good?

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